(You can download the 3-way install walk through pdf at the bottom of the page.)
A light that is controlled by more than one switch is called a multi-way switch. The most common multi-way is a 3-way which is a light that is controlled by two switches such as at the top and bottom of the stairs, two sides of a hallway or two sides of a room.
Plum 3-Way Pre Installation Notes
Multi-way switches can be complicated to deal with. Before jumping in and removing switches, you must first consider a couple of things. We will focus on the most popular 3-way switch.
The key to success
If you can understand the following two paragraphs, the wiring will be easy and intuitive to you. If the following sentences are confusing, don’t worry, we’ll still walk you through the installation process.
When wiring multiple Plum Lightpads into a multi-way switch, only one Lightpad will be physically connected to the light LOAD. This is called the LOAD side Lightpad. The LOAD side lightpad will have Hot, Neutral and LOAD connected (plus ground).
All other Lightpads in the multi-way circuit are not physically connected to the light or the LOAD side Lightpad. These are called LINE side Lightpads. LINE side Lightpads only need Hot and Neutral (plus ground). They do not use the LOAD wire. These LINE-side Lightpads will communicate with the LOAD side lightpad via Wi-Fi after all Lightpads are provisioned.
First we need to figure out the following.
1.Are you replacing existing 3-way.
2.What kind of switch are you replacing?
–Is it standard dumb switch?
-Is it a dimmer? If so is it electronic?
-Are the switches in a multi-gang box?
All of these conditions can impact the appearance of the wiring when removing the existing switches.
To be successful, you must find the HOT wire and the LOAD wire for your 3-way switch. For this discussion, we will use the term “box” to indicate the plastic or metal back-box into which the switch is installed.
Standard 3-way switches usually have a Hot wire in one location and the Load wire at the other location. However, it is possible that both are in a single box or that Hot is in both boxes. Typically, two traveller wires are used to complete the circuit between the two. Standard switches do not require a Neutral wire so they are usually in the back of the box capped with a wire nut. Depending on on what wires are available at each location, it me be necessary to re-purpose the Traveller to supply Hot, Neutral, or both from one location to the other.
Here are some common situations we have run into when installing 3-ways.
Once the switches are installed only the switch driving the Load will control the Light immediately. The 2nd switch must be provisioned using the Plum app.
Provision the Master switch driving the Load then provision the second switch and choose the existing Light with the name of the 1st switch. This becomes the Aux switch which is essentially a remote for the Master switch. As long as they are connected to the wifi network, the Aux will control the Light via the wall switch.
IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT ANY PART OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS, CONSULT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN. There is a possibility of getting shocked. Make sure you look through the manual and feel confident in your ability to set up your lightpads, otherwise contact an electrician.
We’re here to help. If you have any questions contact us at email@example.com
The instructions below are to install the Lightpad into a single pole switch (a light that is controlled by just one switch). If you have a multi-way switch (a light controlled by two or more switches, you will need to augment the installation manual with the details on installing a multi-way switch (see FAQ).
When I turn on a light, the glow ring flashes orange and the light turns off or dims.
The maximum load the Lightpad can handle is 400 watts for incandescent bulbs and 150 for LED & CFL.
If you connect the Lightpad to a load that is greater than 400W, the Lightpad will self-limit itself to 400W. The results of this limiting are different depending on whether you have the Lighpad set up as a dimmer vs a switch.
If the Lightpad is set up as a switch, the light will turn off if the max load exceeds 400 watts. The glow ring will also flash orange as this happens.
If the Lightpad is set up as a dimmer, the lights will dim to a level below 400 watts. The glow ring will flash orange the first time this happens, but thereafter, the Lightpad is smart enough to know to not increase the light level on that load above 400W.
To eliminate this issue, try reducing the load by using bulbs with a lower rating. If you are using Incandescent bulbs try switching to LED or CFL.
If the Lightpad has been derated by removing the metal fins on the side and you are using Incandescent bulbs, then you should reduce the max load by 50 watts per side removed.
One side removed = 350 watts max load.
Both sides removed = 300 watts max load.
LED and CFL bulbs do not require a reducing the max load and remains the same 150 watts.
In all cases, the Lightpad has secondary protection in the form of temperature sensors. Each lightpad has several temperature sensors and if the load is too high for the Lightpad to safely dissipate, and temperatures climb too high, the Lightpad will turn itself off until the temperature decreases to a safe level.
Plum Lightpads use the 2.4ghz frequency band. If you have a dual band router and the 2.4ghz and 5ghz bands have the same SSID, Plum recommends that you login to the router admin panel and separate them by giving them each a unique name. When you provision the Lightpad to your WiFi access point the first time, your smart phone will need to be connected to the same 2.4GHz network that you want your Lightpads to be connected to. After provisioning, your smart phone can be connected to any WiFi network or to any WAN network.
example: [Mywifi_2.4ghz / Mywifi_5ghz]
Plum recommends WPA-2 security on your WiFi network.
If your SSID is hidden, you will need to unhide the network temporarily when you are provisioning the Plum Lightpads. After provisioning the Lightpads to your WiFi network, you may re-hide the SSID if you’d like.
Plum Lightpad currently work with these 3rd party services:
- Amazon Echo
- Google Assistant/Home
- IFTTT Actions
These integrations are on our roadmap.
- IFTTT Triggers
- Apple HomeKit
In addition, we also plan to publish an open API.
- Neutral wire
- iPhone 4S or higher, or any iPad or iPod Touch with Bluetooth
- Android phone with Android version 5 or higher (android app is in alpha, Here is the link to our Android app. http://bit.ly/PlumAndroid)
- Wifi Network with 2.4ghz band enabled.
- Dimmable Incandescent, LED, or CFL bulbs for dimming function.
- Max load is 400 watts for Incandescent and 150 watts for LED & CFL
- Fits into any standard N. American electrical switch box.
The warranty covers all product defects for 1 year from the date of purchase.
Anything beyond 1 year will be decided on a case by case basis.
If you have any problems at all, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
If you have a lightpad that needs replacing, we send advance replacements. For RMA replacements, we often send refurbished units that have been tested, repaired, and fully functioning depending on availability. If your defective unit has been derated by removing fins on either or both sides of the heat sink, we will attempt to send a replacement unit that has already been derated the same as your existing unit.
We send advanced replacements and include pre-paid shipping label to return the defective product. Once the replacement product has been installed, please return the defective product in a timely manner to avoid additional charges.
We will accept returns within 30 days of the purchase date if the product is not derated and is good condition along with the original packaging & accessories. The purchaser is responsible for the return shipping costs. Contact our support team to set up a return and obtain an RMA case number: email@example.com
Sign in to your Amazon account on the Alexa Web app or the Alexa iOS app.
Use your Plum account credentials to link to Alexa. You’ll use the same user name and password that you use to log into the Plum app on your smart phone.
Select your Home.
Tell Alexa to discover new devices or click on the discover link in the app.
Alexa will discover all your Lights and Scenes giving you full voice control for your Lights!
Improving your WiFi Network for the Internet of Things
Now that you have three computers, two tablets, four smartphones, three smart TVs, two thermostats, four smoke detectors, two door locks and 10 smart light switches connected to your Wi-Fi network, it may be time to upgrade that network to handle the load.
Today’s typical consumer Wi-Fi network router/access point is designed to only handle about 20 persistent connections. After that, you’re likely to need more hardware to support the load.
Here is Plum’s recommendation for maximizing your Wi-Fi coverage and connectivity.
Put your modem in bridge mode
Your ISP provided you with a single box that typically covers three tasks. First, it converts your phone or cable signal into Ethernet. This is the modem function. Second, it assigns IP addresses and routes signals from connected devices (whether wired or wireless) to each other and to the WAN. And, third, it acts as a Wi-Fi access point to allow wireless devices to connect to the router.
All of these tasks require compute power and typically these multi-function boxes are not powerful enough to handle all of these tasks for a large number of IP connected devices.
Putting your router into bridge mode means turning your modem/router/access point into just a modem. You can typically google this phrase “how to put “XYZ model’ in to bridge mode.” Look at your cable modem and find the manufacturer and model number of your modem. Consult google on how to log into your device and change the settings to put your modem into bridge mode.
Add a high performance router
Now that your modem is providing an IP address for your home, you’ll need a separate router to handle the DHCP functions of assigning an IP address and routing signals inside your home. We’ve tried quite a few routers and our favorite right now is the Netgear Nighthawk R7000. An upgrade to this router is the Net gear Nighthawk R7800. There are other routers that are also suitable, but this one has performed very solidly in our tests.
Here’s a good site for comparing price performance on router models. Remember, that you’re looking for good performance on 2.4GHz as well as 5GHz since most IOT devices still operate in the 2.4GHz band. http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/router/bar/115-2_4-ghz-updn-c
If you have a small floorplan house and less than 20 connected devices, you can also use this device as your Wi-Fi access point.
If you have more than 20 connected devices or a larger floorplan house, you’ll likely need additional Wi-Fi access points.
Add additional Wi-Fi access points.
If you live in a multi-story house or have more than about 2000 square feet, you might need to put in additional Wi-Fi access points to get good coverage throughout your house.
Or, if you have more than twenty Wi-Fi connected devices, you’ll need another access point.
We strongly suggest that this access point be connected to your main router via Ethernet cable. If your house is wired for Ethernet, this can be fairly straightforward. In some cases, you might need to run Ethernet cable inside your house to connect the new access point(s) to your router.
If you have 3 floors in your house, you’ll likely benefit from having one access point on each floor. Or, if you have stone or metal walls, you’ll benefit having an access point on each side of this obstruction.
When you set up these additional access points, make sure to configure them as access points only, not routers. Your house should only have one router and that’s the main router that you plugged directly into your modem.
If you are adding one additional access point to your network, it can be plugged directly into your main router.
However, if you are adding two or more additional access points to your network, we suggest putting a switch in between your main router and your additional access points. A switch will allow communication between devices on the additional access points without burdening the main router. See the diagram at the end of this article for a visual chart of how this would be connected.
We also suggest the same router as we recommended before for these access points. We’ve had good success with the Nighthawk R7000 or R7800. They have very strong processors and great 2.4GHz and 5GHz simultaneous throughput.
Mesh Wi-Fi Networks
Recently companies like Eero and Luma have offered mesh Wi-Fi access points and router to easily extend Wi-Fi connectivity across your home. Unfortunately for IOT devices, there are currently problems with these networks and IOT devices. We are working with the engineering teams at these companies but as of now, we cannot recommend these networks for IOT devices.
A Strong and Capable Network
A network with a separate modem, separate strong router and separate strong access points is a reliable and consistent network. It can be set up for a reasonable cost and will provide your family with strong connectivity for their devices and will allow you to build out your IOT connected smart home.
Plum is standing by to help. Please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or 1.844.200.7586
You can easily set a schedule to turn your lights on or off at specific times by creating “Events”. Events can be created to turn a set of lights on to a specific intensity or to turn a set of lights off or even a combination of both.
Events can be created for and Light, any Room or any Scene. If you have several Lightpads, we recommend creating Scene Events.
Create a scene by pressing the + button in the Plum app and select “Create New Scene
Name your scene and select the lights
Click the Check Mark and then select your light levels.
Select a transition time which determines how long it takes for the lights to reach this level and then click the check mark.
Navigate to your Scenes list and click the pencil icon in your new scene and add an Event to your Scene. Name your scene, select the time for your Event to happen and select the days of the week for the Event to happen. Then click the check mark and make sure the Event is turned on.
You can repeat this process to create a Scene and Event to turn lights off if you’d like.
Room or Light Event:
You can follow a similar process to create a Room Event or a Light Event. If you have many lightpads and plan on creating multiple events, we recommend you use scene events as they provide more functionality.
Troubleshooting Connectivity Issues
Problem: I can no longer control my light through the app!
The Lightpad can lose it’s wifi connection on rare occasions causing loss of control using the Plum app. The Lightpad is designed to automatically rejoin wifi if it does drop off but is not always able to do so. You may notice Lightpads randomly glowing or flashing green. This indicates that it has reestablished its wifi connection but does not always indicate that it dropped off the network. The router may have just renewed the DHCP lease or something else related to how the router manages clients.
Here are some steps for troubleshooting post provisioning Lightpad connectivity issues.
- DO NOT delete the light from the application. This is one of the very last things to try and we encourage you to contact us before doing this.
- Try to control the Light while your mobile device is connected to your wifi and also test with wifi off using cellular data. If you are able to control it locally but not outside your network, it could mean the wifi is fine and the connection to our server has been interrupted.
- Reboot the Lightpad by pulling the air-gap power cutoff switch located on the bezel directly below the touch pad in the center.
- Force quit the app and reopen to establish a new connection to our server. Many users are not aware that every iOS app you open is idle in the background until you force quit or reboot your device. This can cause issues with all apps on the device.
- Reboot your mobile device. This is a step that is commonly ignored especially if every other app or functionality appears tone working but keep mind that most apps are made by different developers using different design protocols that can benefit from this simple step. Relax, you will be back on your device again in minutes and everything will still be there. Yep, sometimes it’s that easy.
- Rebooting your router/modem/wireless access points is another under utilized step for connectivity issues. No this is not the most convenient thing to do but it really is good for every thing in or using the network.
- Wifi interference is a huge factor that is difficult to understand but it is real and our product’s antenna is under the bezel covered by the switch plate and stays in the same location so it is pretty much necessary to overcompensate by having the best possible wifi signal that you can manage. If you have Lightpads that frequently lose wifi connection, you might want to re-evaluate your wifi environment. Just because the device is right next to the router does not mean it has great signal strength. There are many common household items that can dramatically degrade a wifi signal. One thing to try is to change the channel on your router. Channels 1,6, and 11 are the only channels that do not overlap but the best channel option depends on the environment in and around your home. Applications like Wifi Explorer can help with analyzing your surroundings so you can select the channel with the least interference.
- Wifi is overloaded with connected devices and this can cause the Lightpads to lose connection. Every Lightpad opens a connection to every other Lightpad and with our server. The protocol that is used to transmit data across the local wifi network is different from the data PCs and mobile devices use. This is because it helps keep your Lightpads secure and prevent outside interference from people with malicious intent. I am currently dealing with this situation myself. My single Asus AC2400 has a total of 38 active devices running nearly all day. Asus has software that allows you to view the load on your network and mine is always strained and sometimes 1 of the 2 processors will be 100% used. The number of connections open and the amount of data transmitted will have equal impact on the performance of the router. In my case, I will need to upgrade my router or continue to have performance issues with all my devices.
- Once all these factors have been considered and you feel confident that you have everything under control consider everything again. If you still feel the need to further troubleshoot, you can always try the last resort actions and delete the light from the app and re-provision or reset the Lightpad to the factory default settings.
If you replace your Wi-Fi access point and are using the same SSID and same password as you did on your previous access point, all the Lightpads will connect automatically to the new access point.
If you want to change your network SSID or password and preserve your Scenes and Events follow this procedure for each Lightpad in your app.
- Tap the plus to add and select create new Lightpad.
- Select the existing room.
- Then select the existing Lightpad that you want to change SSID.
- Pair the Lightpad that is associated with the light and room in the app.
- Choose the new SSID and enter the password.
If the glow ring is endlessly cycling through colors, the Lightpad is stuck and unable to boot up. This is usually related to the software that runs the Lightpad but it is sometimes a hardware failure.
First, try a reboot on the Lightpad.
How to reboot a Lightpad
If the glow ring is still changing colors after several minutes, try a factory reset.
How to reset a Lightpad to factory settings.
A factory reset will cycle through a pattern of color changes for about 5 min before it is complete. Allow 10 minutes to pass and return to check to see if the reset was successful.
The glow ring should be the default ice blue and should glow when it senses movement. The Lightpad is now ready to provision again.
If resetting the Lightpad does not work, contact our support team at email@example.com.
The Lightpad’s fuse is blown and the unit must be replaced. Contact firstname.lastname@example.org
- Incorrect wiring.
- Wiring the Lightpad without flipping off the circuit breaker.
- A short somewhere in the electrical circuit.
- Wires coming loose from fasteners and making contact in the electrical box.
- Power surge.
- Controlling an electrical outlet with the Lightpad and controlling an appliance like a vacuum cleaner.
Single pole loads
The Lightpad has likely lost it’s connection to Wi-Fi. Reboot the Lightpad by pulling the air-gap switch. The boot up takes approximately 60 seconds and the glow ring will be cycling through colors during this time. Once the color cycle stops the Lightpad should be reconnected to Wi-Fi.
3-way or multi-way loads
3-way switches use 2 Lightpads to control the same light. One Lightpad is the Load Side that drives the load to light and the other Lightpad (called the Line Side) controls the Load Side switch over Wi-Fi. Both need to be on Wi-Fi to all work properly. If the Load Side loses Wi-Fi connectivity, the light can be controlled from the Load Side lightpad but the app and Line Side Lightpad will not work. If the Line Side Lightpad is offline, the app and Load Side Lightpad will work but the Line Side switch will not. Reboot both switches using the air-gap switch. Once they are booted up they should all be online and working again.
If you frequently have Lightpads that lose connectivity with the Lightpad, you may need to upgrade your home network. See the Network Connectivity FAQ section for help in upgrading your network or contact us at email@example.com.
One of the steps in the provisioning process requires you to “pair” your mobile device with the Lightpad using BLE (bluetooth low energy).
This is how the app knows which Lightpad to apply the selected settings to.
Some users have reported that when they press and hold for 2 seconds, nothing happens and they are unable to get past this step. The problem is intermittent and seems to happen after multiple failed setup attempts due to errors related to wifi. Or when a light is deleted from the app, it will not pair when attempting to add it back.
The steps below have resolved this issue in most cases.
- The iOS device iPad or iPhone needs to be new enough to support BLE. Any iOS 9 or10 device should work.
- Force quit the Plum app so it is not running in the background.
How to force quit an app on iOS device.
- Reboot the Lightpad via the airgap switch.
How to reboot Lightpad.
- The Lightpad takes around 1 minute to boot up. While it is booting, open the Bluetooth settings on your iOS device and turn Bluetooth off and back on. Rebooting the device is an even better option.
- Open the Plum app and try to provision again.
- Be sure to use the tip of your finger only. Pressing down with the pad of your finger could be read as using 2 fingers.
- If it does not blink dark blue after several seconds, lift your finger and press & hold for 5-6 seconds lift and repeat if needed.
- If it still does not pair, try tapping rapidly with the point of your finger.
- Press cancel to go back a step and then try again.
- If it still won’t pair, try with a second mobile device.
Last resort is to perform a factory reset on the Lightpad.
How to factory reset the Lightpad.
If you are unable to ever get the Lightpad to pair, contact firstname.lastname@example.org to arrange an RMA replacement.
In some rare cases, it may be helpful to perform a factory reset on the Lightpad.
We recommend this as a last resort when troubleshooting a problem. If you have not already
If resetting a Lightpad that has already been provisioned, be sure to delete the Light from the app before or after performing the reset. The Lightpad will need to provisioned again after the reset in order to control the light through the app.
Most connectivity issues can be resolved by simply rebooting the Lightpad.
We recommend this as the first step to troubleshooting wifi issues like losing control over a light through the app. The Lightpad is designed to automatically rejoin your wifi if it loses connection but sometimes it may not be able to. Rebooting will almost always get the Lightpad back on wifi.
The Plum Lightpad is electronic and requires the Neutral so that it can be powered on at all times. Almost all electronic switches or dimmers require the neutral wire to operate.
If you are replacing a standard toggle slight switch, the neutral wire will not be used on that switch. You will need to locate the neutral wire. 90% of homes have the neutral wire run to the electrical box. If your house is older construction and you do not have the neutral wire run to the electrical box, you will need to have an electrician run a neutral wire to the electrical box before you can install the Plum Lightpad.
The Neutral wire is a typically a bundle of wires that are all white. They are capped with a wire fastener and pushed into the back of the electric box.
The Ground wire is also a bundle of wires that run through the box. They are almost always bare copper and easy to identify. Do not use the ground wire in place of the neutral wire.
Installing a Lightpad in a multi-way switch with a dumb switch.
A multi-way means a light that is controlled by more than one switch such as at the top and bottom of a stairway or on two ends of a hallway. The term 3-way applies to a light that is controlled by two switches. 4-way is a light that is controlled by three switches.
Plum recommends that all switches in a multi-way circuit be replaced with Plum Lightpads. However, it is possible to control a multi-way switch with only one Plum Lightpad. If you do this, you will need to disconnect the other switches in the multi-way circuit, effectively turning the multi-way into a single pole switch. If this is acceptable to you, these instructions will walk you through the installation:
This method will disable to dumb switch and nothing will happen if it is flipped. If you do not disable the dumb switches, when you turn them off, the entire circuit will lose power and your Plum Lightpad will no longer be powered rendering it non-functional.
- First, identify the Hot side and the Load side switch. The Load side switch is the switch that connects to your light.
- The switches you are replacing have 3 terminals. Two will be the same color and one will be a different color
- The two screws that are the same color are used for the traveler wires.
- The different color screw is called the common terminal.
- The wire connected to the common terminal is either the Hot wire from the breaker panel or the Load wire to the light.
- To identify the Load wire vs the Hot wire, turn the breaker on and the switch off. When the switch is off, the light will be off.
- Using your voltage detection pen, touch the common wire on both switches. The switch that registers Hot is the Hot side. The other switch is the Load side and the wire connected the common on the Load side is the Load wire.
- The Plum Lightpad must be connected to the Load wire.
Once you have identified the Hot/Load side then you can determine how to use the travelers. Turn the breaker off before installing the Plum Lightpad
This instruction assumes that you have black and red traveler wires. If your traveler wires are different color, substitute that color in these instructions.
Installing the Plum Lightpad on the Load side
To install the Plum Lightpad on the Load side, connect the Load wire to the red Plum wire. If there is a hot wire in the Load side box, that hot wire should be connected to the black Plum wire. If there is no hot in this electrical box, connect the black traveler wire to the black plum wire. If there is a neutral wire in this box, connect that neutral wire to the white Plum wire. If there is no neutral wire in this box, connect the red traveler to the white plum wire.
Disconnect the wires on the Load side switch. If there was not a Hot wire in the Load side switch box, connect the Hot wire to the black traveler. If there was not a neutral wire in the Load side switch box, connect a Neutral wire to the red traveler. Cap any wires that are not used. You may reinstall the disconnected dumb switch in the Hot side box if you want, or put a blank insert in the hot side switch plate.
Installing the Plum Lightpad on the Hot side
To install the Plum Lightpad on the Hot side, connect the Hot wire to the black Plum wire. Connect the red traveler to the red Plum wire. If there is a neutral wire in this box, connect that neutral wire to the white Plum wire. If there is no neutral wire in this box, connect the black traveler to the white plum wire.
Disconnect the wires on the Load side switch. Connect the Load wire to the red traveler. If there was not a neutral wire in the Load side switch box, connect a Neutral wire to the black traveler. You may reinstall the disconnected dumb switch in the Hot side box if you want, or put a blank insert in the hot side switch plate.
Tablet versions of the app are planned on the roadmap.
Kids with messy hands? The Plum Lightpad is easy to wash off with a soft cloth and mild cleaning agent. You can clean the Lightpad just the same as you’d clean any light switch. But it’s probably best if you don’t spray cleaning agents directly on the Lightpad. Wet the cloth first and then clean and dry.
Plum plans to create international versions of the Plum Lightpad. The current version is spec’d to work in the US, Canada and Mexico.
Plum has located the Wi-Fi antenna in the faceplate opening. The Plum Lightpad has been tested with metal boxes and metal faceplates. Your Wi-Fi performance should be sufficient with either a metal back box or a metal faceplate.
To control both sides of a 3-way switch, you need two Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmers.
Yes, Plum will publish an open API to control the Plum Lightpad. In the meantime, there is a reverse engineered version that is community supported on Reddit.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer works with standard “decora” faceplates. These faceplates can be purchased in multiple colors at any hardware store or online.
Plum recommends you always protect your WiFi network with proper security. Plum supports networks configured with WEP, WPA and WPA2 security.
The web application to control the Plum Lightpad is in development.
The Plum Android app is in alpha. Here is the link to download the Plum alpha Android app. http://bit.ly/PlumAndroid
All features except Events are present in the alpha app. If you find a bug that you’d like to report, email email@example.com and use the email title “Android bug report”.
The Plum mobile app allows you to set a minimum dim level for any light. For lights that flicker at a certain dim level, you can simply prevent the dimmer from going this low using the app.
Plum recommends high quality LED lamps with a full dimming range and a warm temperature setting for the closest representation of incandescent light.
Like most smart light switches, the Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer requires a neutral wire. Our research shows that 90% of homes in the US have a Neutral wire run to the switch box. If you do not have a neutral wire and wish to install a Plum Lightpad, an electrician can run a neutral wire to your switch box.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer can switch small appliances on and off provided these devices do not exceed 3.33A of current draw. Devices such as AC units and water heaters (as well as irons, hair dryers, curling irons etc) typically draw more current than this. Using the Lightpad to control high-load devices may cause the fuse in the Lightpad to blow. A blown fuse is evident when the Lightpad glow ring pulses red.
It’s simple! After you install the Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer, you launch the app and it connects to the Lightpad via Bluetooth. You enter your Wi-Fi information one time and the Lightpad joins your Wi-Fi network.
Plum plans to integrate directly with certain 3rd party platforms. In the meantime, Plum will publish an open API that programmers can use to integrate the Plum Lightpad with other home automation platforms.
Plum will publish an open API that programmers can use to integrate the Plum Lightpad with other home automation platforms.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer connects over WiFi directly to your wireless access point without the need for gateways or hubs. We chose this method for communication instead of the more complicated Zigbee or Zwave interface.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer will handle up to 400W for an incandescent load and up to 150W for an LED load.
We do plan to launch international versions of the Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer. First, we are focusing on our North America version. We’ve already comprehended worldwide voltages, so our major tasks are to create a new mechanical design appropriate for different countries and then get agency approval.
If your home Wi-Fi goes down you will still be able to control lights from the Lightpad itself. However, without Wi-Fi, you cannot control the lights from your smartphone. When Wi-Fi connectivity is restored, the Lightpads will automatically reconnect to your Wi-Fi network and the Plum cloud.
If your internet connection is lost, you will still be able to control your lights from the smart phone while your smartphone is on the local Wi-Fi network. When the internet connection returns, the Lightpads will automatically reconnect to the Plum cloud.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer has a free cloud service which allows you to control your lights when you are away from home and also to see information about your lights (which ones are on or off, how much power then are using or have used etc). The cloud is not required for your dimmers to operate. If you choose to disconnect from the cloud, you can still control your lightpads when you are on the same Wi-Fi network. Some functionality will be limited if you choose to disconnect from the cloud.
Yes, the Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer works in any multi-way switch leg. A multi-way switch leg is one where more than one switch controls the same light. These are frequently found at the top and bottom of a set of stairs or on multiple entrances to the same room.
Yes, you can set timer functions for single lights, groups of lights or scenes with a variety of dim levels. The timer can be set to clock time or to sun time (relative to dusk/dawn). We use your postal code to determine the daily sunrise and sunset times.
Yes, the Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer can be set as a switch to control non-dimmable bulbs or loads. When in switch mode, all functionality is retained other than the ability to dim.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer can turn a fan on or off when it is set in switch mode using the mobile app. The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer is NOT made to control the speed of a fan.
The Plum Lightpad Smart Dimmer fits into a standard single gang will box. It fits anywhere a standard dimmer will fit. It will also fit into multi-gang boxes alongside other Plum Lightpads or other switches or dimmers.